Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey’s Meursault bottling draws fruit from high on the slope towards Puligny, a patchwork of old and newer vines in lieu-dits like Narvaux, Luchets and Malpoiriers. These sites bring a bit of that Puligny lift to the table with bright, mineral edges that keep the wine’s energy up, even when Meursault’s typical generosity tries to take over.

The 2022 shows the kind of tension that makes you think it’ll do well with a few years in bottle. There’s a citrus-driven core here, some lemon, maybe a hint of green apple, balanced by a touch of flesh that doesn’t get too carried away. It shows a steady build of flavour and texture that shows the hands-off style Pierre-Yves is known for.

A pale lemon colour, a whiff of citrus, and a structure that holds everything together without making a big fuss. If you’re after something that reflects Meursault’s finer side, with a nod to Puligny’s cut, this is a good one to have on hand.